Bye, Sunscreen

The FDA began requiring manufacturers to do more in depth safety testing of their products only in the last couple decades. Sunscreens were grandfathered in to the FDA’s “GRASE” (generally recognized as safe and effective) category with no real safety testing, as sunscreen was around much longer than the safety standards currently held. The FDA has been urging the sunscreen industry to further test their products for a very long time, with no actionable response. In 2019, they took it upon themselves to investigate common sunscreen products you would find on any shop’s shelves. The results floored us all.

In the test, blood concentrations of oxybenzone were more than 180 times the FDA’s level of concern after a single application of sunscreen. They soared to more than 500 times the FDA’s level of concern after 4 days of regular use (three reapplications a day). Three weeks later, blood tests continued to show higher levels of oxybenzone, though it was much lower than at the start of the study.

Oxybenzone (also known as benzophenone-3) is one of the most commonly used sunscreen chemicals. It is a proven endocrine disruptor, causes multiple estrogenic effects, developmental and reproductive toxicity, androgenic disrupting effects, and is linked to low testosterone in adolescent boys. BP-3 has been detected in urine and breast milk samples worldwide.

The threat doesn’t end at our own health, but the toxic ramifications extend to our planet as well. Most notably in present, our coral reefs are suffering greatly. So much so that Hawaii has outlawed the sale of these chemical sunscreens after decades of tourism has led to the death and bleaching of coral reef, after coral reef. The ban was voted on almost three years ago, and put into effect January of this year. A 2015 study looking at the coral reefs in both Hawaii and the Carribean found that “the chemical not only kills the coral, it causes DNA damage in adults and deforms the DNA in coral in the larval stage, making it unlikely they can develop properly”. Just a small drop is enough to do extensive damage. For a comprehensive dive into oxybenzone and its consequences in both human and marine life, check out Save the Corals easy to digest paper here.

Unfortunately, it’s not just oxybenzone that we must check the labels for. Parabens, silicones, and synthetic fragrances are doing more harm than good. The FDA has removed 12 of 14 sunscreen filters allowed for use in the states from their GRASE listing. This doesn’t necessarily mean that all twelve active ingredients are intrinsically harmful, but rather they require much further research into understanding their effects on human health. The current findings though, aren’t looking favorable according to here, here, and here.

Traditional sunscreens present so much more risk than benefit. I haven’t even burdened you with what widespread use is doing to our drinking water. Everywhere you look, credible advocates are fearmongering the public into slathering and spraying these ingredients onto their skin with no mention of the toxicity factor. It takes education to uproot the status quo. To get mothers to think twice before rubbing in layer after layer onto supple, virgin skin, with the absolute best intentions of protecting their children. The further you dig, the uglier the picture looks. Recap the ‘screen.

Better Alternatives

Internal Sunscreen

Our bodies have divine inner wisdom if we just listen. So can be said of the natural appeal of sun-ripened fruits, vegetables, and herbs as the days grow longer and warmer. Beauty — and in this case protection — begins from within. Leave the packaged convenience food on the shelf. Nourish your skin cells with whole, real foods and they will swell with appreciation under the summer sun.

Antioxidants will be our best allies in regards to protecting our skin from free radicals. We’re becoming to understand the preventative power of nutrients such as lycopene, an antioxidant [twice as effective] as beta-carotene at blocking out UV light. Some pink and red fruits and veggies can attribute their characteristic color to lycopene. One study increased natural skin protection by 40% over 12 weeks just by adding in a daily dose of cooked tomatoes, the densest source of lycopenes. Tomato products, guava, pink grapefruit, watermelon, and papaya are all great sources of this SPF wonder nutrient.

Plant polyphenols are also powerful botanical antioxidants that aid you in harmonizing with the sun. Green tea has been proven to have a host of health benefits, most important in regards to our subject matter, preventing sunburns and decreasing the damaging effects of ultraviolet radiation. Cocoa, pure and unprocessed, contains four times as much phenols as tea. Yes, nature is good! Milk shouldn’t be added however, as it interferes with the absorption of the essential nutrients so opt for the highest percentage dark chocolate you can manage.

What many point to as “sun damage” can be more accurately blamed on unfortunate dietary choices, of which are far too easy to fall victim to in our standard western diet of processed foods laden with pesticides, sugars, and polyunsaturated fats. Imagine your body processing this load as best it can, when you decide to take a lie down and bake the chemicals in for an hour as you bask in the sun. No doubt, chronic exposure to this toxic cocktail will eventually lead your skin to retaliate.

So what does the SPF diet look like? A diet rich in Omega 3s, vitamin E, vitamin C, probiotics, polyphenols and carotenoids like lycopene, beta carotene, lutein and zeaxanthin. Okay, sure, but in practical application? A little something like this…

Download an SPF Grocery List here >

The Solar Callus

Again, when we look to the rhythms of nature, there we find our best guide. The sky does not give us a thick cloud cover in the dead of winter one moment, and then suddenly the height of summer the next. Spring saunters in tenderly, kissing the frost away, whispering the trees awake, and caressing our photoreceptors. This is the phase of reintroduction that nature has built in for us, so use it wisely. Tune in as you bask, baring as much skin as the moment allows. Once your skin begins to feel warm, cover up or seek shade. The amount of beneficial exposure will be variable to your skin type, your natural pigmentation, and of course the conditions of the day. Early morning sun is premium light for prepping your skin for the sunshine to come later that day. Morning to solar noon is ideal. Progressively increase exposure time; if on day one you managed five minutes, day two may be seven or 10 minutes. With this method we are building our melanin base, which not only prevents sunburn but enhances the wellbeing of many systems in the body. But more on melanin later!

Clothes & Shade

Soaked in as much sun as you can handle? Clothes remain one of the simplest and most effective ways at absorbing UV radiation. No checking labels or reapplication required! Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF) is the standard measurement on which we rate fabrics for their shielding power. A UPF of 30 to 49 is considered great protection, while a UPF of 50+ is accepted as excellent by the Skin Cancer Foundation. Many factors influence the effectiveness of clothing as protection such as color, fabric, and fit. Darker or brighter colors absorb UV rather than allow them to pass through and penetrate you. Hold a garment up to the light, if you can see through it then that tells you quite a bit. Opt for densely woven fabrics like canvas, denim, or wool. Unbleached cotton has natural lignins which absorb UV whereas some fabrics offer reflective protection like satin or silk. Be mindful that wet or tight (think, stretched) clothing will not be as effective. You can buy [UPF rated clothing] specifically made for this, or you can use these tips to explore your existing wardrobe for ultimate protection!

Seeking shade when sun soaked is rather intuitive, however, if you have denied your body a listening ear for a long time, it may take some practice getting reacquainted with your inner guidance. Be gentle with yourself and stay curious. It can be as simple as taking a moment to close your eyes, take a deep cleansing breath and tune in to ask yourself these three questions:

How do I feel?

What do I need?

Can I give myself that?

You may get more information than you were asking for! Maybe nothing obvious comes through right away, that’s alright. Stay curious! Try to honor your body’s needs in what ways are available in that moment. Maybe it’s a glass of water. Maybe it’s a sun hat. Maybe it’s to make a career shift to allow many more hours spent in the sun!

Worth noting: Traditional beach umbrellas, while giving the relief and illusion of shade, don’t stop diffused UV radiation, therefore don’t offer you true protection.

Oils

Much like their mighty power in our food, plants can offer us both topical protection and nourishment as well. Similarly because of their free-radical-squashing antioxidant properties, and also because they contain polyphenols like flavonoids and carotenoids. Flavonoids’ molecular structure gives them the ability to absorb UV radiation between 200 and 400 nanometers, which in layman speak says: they are useful sunscreen agents. Let’s dip our toes into a few of mother nature’s sun-harmonizing gifts.

Sesame oil resists 30% of UV rays and is recognized as nature’s best totally natural sun block. It’s rich in antioxidants and moisturizes dry skin. Coconut oil comes in at a little lower on the protection game at effectively blocking 20% of UV rays. It’s light on pores, and gives off an unmistakable summer-time aroma. Cottonseed, peanut, and olive oils are all heavier oils that while offering just as much protection, may not be ideal for some skin types. Hempseed oil should also be noted as a sun harmonizer. Although we don’t know exactly how much protection it presents, it has many nourishing properties like vitamin E, chlorophyll, and essential fatty acids which help mend damaged skin.

Raspberry seed oil offers full spectrum protection similar to the mineral sunscreen ingredient, titanium dioxide, equivalent to a 28-50 SPF protection factor against UVB and 8 SPF against UVA. Again, we have antioxidants to thank; boosting collagen and elastin while actively renewing skin cells.

Grapeseed contains high levels of OPC, which stands for a long science-y word that you don’t really need to know. What you do need to know, however, is that OCP works synergistically with both vitamin C and E to protect and replenish the integrity and elastin in the skin. The takeaway here: When grapeseed oil, or an OPC cream, is applied to the skin before exposure to the sun, less burning of the skin occurs.

Wheat germ oil prevents the loss of moisture from the skin while nourishing it deeply, mostly thanks to its rich vitamin E content.

Pumpkin seed oil is one you don’t hear about very often but is worth knowing! With two antioxidant compounds, it is well known in Eastern Europe and Middle East folklore for it’s myriad of health benefits both topically and orally. For our purposes, it makes a great addition into an enriching sun elixir. Because of its deep aroma, it’s best to add only a little bit into a carrier oil for topical use.

Avocado oil is a deliciously fatty oil rich in vitamin E to soothe and protect the skin. It also promotes the production of collagen, making it a great addition to our summer skin care.

Please don’t mistake, these oils, while deeply nourishing and naturally supportive of balanced sun time, will not have the same shielding effect as you may be used to from your Banana Boat or Neutrogena bottle. Those traditional sunscreens disarm your skin’s innate warning signals. We are redefining our relation with the solar powers that be, not numbing and blocking, but tuning in and harmonizing with. The oils I’ve listed above are superb additions to our growing sunny day tool-kit and compliment very nicely with the other methods on this list including our next recommendation….

“Botanical oils preserve the juiciness of your sun exposure. Plants, too, require wise interaction with the sun. Almost all plant oils offer some degree of ultraviolet protection to their own tissue – and ours.”

— Nadine Artemis, health & beauty philosopher

Mineral Sunscreen

Remember the 12 of 14 ingredients that were removed from the FDA’s GRASE list? Let’s talk about the other two that are still widely recognized as safe and effective. Meet titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, the two active ingredients in mineral sunscreen. Where as chemical sunscreens absorb the UV radiation, mineral suncreens act as a physical barrier on your skin deflecting UV rays. This means they are actively protecting you directly after application, instead of the standard 10 - 15 minute soak in time for chemical sunscreens. They also can last longer than their chemical counterparts, which aren’t photostable, meaning they break down during the process of absorbing UV like a sponge, and releasing it as heat. They too can be made water-resistant and are compatible with sensitive skins and coral reefs.

Some who are familiar with mineral sunscreens may have a picture of thick, white paste that is a struggle to rub in. For darker colored skin especially, a lasting white residue is unexceptable. But mineral serums have come a long way from their chalky predecessors and that is no longer the case.

When looking for a mineral sunscreen make sure zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are the only active ingredients. Watch out for the term “mineral-based” which is essentially as misleading as the label “all natural” and often means it’s a blend of mineral and chemical. Do check that both active ingredients are present (and the only active ingredients present) for broad spectrum protection. Opt for a cream rather than spray, to avoid any risk of inhalation.